Herb and Honey Bakery's New Beginning
A history of place and an eye on the future, with pastries
What makes a local business worth supporting? Is it the quality of the products? Is it the character of the business owner? Is it the convenience or significance of their location? In the case of Herb and Honey Bakery and owner Jessica Schultz (40 Under 40 Class of 2023), all three get a resounding YES.
If you haven't yet heard the buzz, local bakery Herb and Honey Bakery, which, for the past four years, has been a regular presence in the baked goods section of Urbaniak Brothers Quality Meats, has opened up a new location in the West Bayfront area at 516 Cherry St. They've taken up residence in a building that has been a part of the fabric of the neighborhood for over 115 years and, with the work of benefactor Thomas B. Hagen, the vision and execution of Kidder (architects) and Jefferys (construction), and the drive and success of Jessica's bakery — the building will move into the future as a place of community nourishment, local economic growth, ethical business and agricultural practices, and honestly, the most perfect pastries available in the tri-state area.
The building which was, up until recently, known as Sophia's Tavern was constructed in 1908 and initially served the neighborhood as a grocery store — specifically Scarlett's Community Store and was operated as such through the mid-1930s when the building settled into its bones as a bakery. Steinbarth's Bakery, owned by Otto Steinbarth, opened in the space in 1936. Steinbarth was a purveyor of breads, rolls, cakes, pies, and French pastries. In an Erie Times News article from 1936, it was noted that "the building has all been redecorated and rebuilt enabling daylight and sunshine to penetrate all corners. The cleanliness of the bakery and the manner in which all products are baked will meet with satisfaction and approval of all who purchase at the bakery."
Another local baker, Ludwig (who went by Louis during World War II) Zehe, expanded his bakery empire to this building, purchasing it from the Steinbarths in 1943. Zehe's flagship location occupied 23 W. Seventh St., next to the Boston Store, before the outfit moved to a larger facility at 21 W. Eighth St., eventually expanding to satellite locations throughout the city and county. Mr. Zehe was "especially skilled in pastry work, having completed a course in Vienna, and another at Siebel Institute of Baking in Chicago," states an Erie Times News interview from 1938.
Current owner Jessica Schultz comments on the connection to this building's history as a bakery: "I feel pretty honored to be next in the line. The feel of a place is very important and it is a very rooted, stable, and comforting place to be. It would be nice to think that the building likes to be a bakery."
In 1952, the Zehe family sold the property to Sophia Sliwinski Kotoski and her husband John, who opened up the bar known as Sophia's Tavern. Sophia's served neighbors and visitors for 42 years in this location and in 1994, it continued on with the same name but under the ownership of Lester Holowienko and his wife Christine. The Holowienkos kept it going until it eventually closed in 2019 — totaling 67 years of business as a familiar watering hole for the neighborhood.
Schultz continues, "There are so many people who have stories of this place, or stories that are handed down — like someone's grandfather who always occupied a certain seat at the bar. I'm working on building a community scrapbook where those memories and connections to the building can be recorded and kept here. So many people have a connection to this place and I'm trying to find a way to honor and preserve that."
So how did Herb and Honey Bakery come to occupy this historic space? That story begins with the work of Tom Hagen, architect Jeff Kidder, and their goal to help preserve, restore, and find new uses for the historic buildings of Erie. The group (in this case Historic Erie Restoration, but also, with other projects, as the Historic Erie Preservation Trust) purchased the building in 2022 mainly because of its proximity to their other properties along Millionaire's Row, but without a tenant or use for the building in mind.
Kidder notes, "We bought it not knowing exactly what to do with it and without having an immediate use for it." He continues, "At some point, Anna Frantz (former director of the nonprofit neighborhood group Our West Bayfront) called me about Jessica, told me about her bakery, and mentioned she was possibly looking to relocate to the West Bayfront." Current neighborhood outreach manager of Our West Bayfront Starla Cochenour comments on this connection: "We're so excited to welcome Herb and Honey to the West Bayfront — we're fortunate to have another small business here that not only serves incredible treats but also strengthens the sense of connection that makes our community so special."
The building that now houses Herb and Honey bakery has a long-standing history in the neighborhood. Thanks to Historic Erie Restoration, it has been updated, repaired, expanded, and outfitted specifically for the needs of their new tenant. (Photo: Erin Phillips)
After a zany Tuesday afternoon in August of 2023 (one that involved both power and gas outages, the slapdash transportation of delicate, unbaked pastry dough, and multiple races across town), Schultz was able to meet with Kidder and Hagen, give them a taste of her baked goods, discuss the opportunity, figure out what specifics she would require, and then got to work. Kidder reflects on the unique situation of working with Mr. Hagen, "The amount of rent has nothing to do with how much money was put into the building. It's an investment, but it doesn't have to make sense like it does for everyone else. We were able to do something that cost a lot more than the rent covers and that's okay. That's the mission — we want to help people in that way. We can do above and beyond what's normal for a renovation project and still make it affordable for the tenant."
And that renovation project definitely goes well beyond "normal." The building has been restored, head-to-toe, and expanded specifically to suit the needs of the bakery — with a small seating area, a spot for merchandise and display, all featuring historically accurate tile and woodwork. The exterior has been expanded to include outdoor seating and room for gardens in the spring. The kitchen is pristine, modern, and on-display — a large picture window connects the kitchen with the commercial side of the bakery. Schultz comments on this design choice, "I wanted that window because I wanted people to be reminded of the human aspect of baking and the actual people making their food."
That human aspect of food, one could say, informs many of the choices Schultz has made and continues to make about her work and the social impact of the food she makes. It all started, as so many great food stories do, with a grandmother and a memory. Schultz reflects on how she first became interested in baking, "Before the kindergarten bus arrived, my grandma and I used to bake pies together with fresh, local fruit and rhubarb she grew behind her garage." The baking bug followed her through high school, where she would bake and sell muffins, and into college.
After college, Schultz apprenticed on organic farms in Montana and developed her appreciation for quality produce. "I enjoy farming as much as I enjoy making food and it's because in my mind it's one in the same thing. You can control the quality, the flavor, the variety — and you can have just as much of a nostalgic connection to a certain variety that you're growing as you can to the recipe that you're using." She continues, "Certain things, like rhubarb, I have a really strong connection to because my grandma would grow that and bake with that. That's the reason why I still partner with local farmers — I want to know their growing process and want to support them. I'm not going there asking what's the cheapest, I'm going there asking what's their best."
Maritozzi, a seasonal offering at Herb and Honey bakery are a creative take on the traditional Italian cream filled, brioche roll. The buns were, in Itaian tradition, given to a woman along with a proposal of marriage. (Photo: Erin Phillilps)
And while her menu has regular staple items like sourdough breads, rolls and pretzels, pastries, bear claws, croissants (both savory and sweet), and cookies — she offers regular specials featuring seasonal produce (did someone mention rhubarb?), holiday themes (like my personal favorite, Italian cream-stuffed sweet rolls called Maritozzi, served around Valentine's Day), or locally relevant products (like Federal Hill turkey-stuffed pretzel bites).
But for Schultz, it's not just about cranking out as many baked goods as possible, it's about building and supporting community and bolstering food security within that community. "With all this recent uncertainty, I know that a resilient community will be built around a resilient food system," she posits. Schultz is committed to continue working with local farmers and providers to get as many of her ingredients from as close to home as possible. She's also working to expand the scope of the business by offering classes, informational sessions, and community action groups.
In the meantime, business is booming and Schultz is currently supporting two full-time employees and four part-timers. She's beyond grateful for the community's support — specifically mentioning her gratitude to the City of Erie and their revolving loan fund: "I was able to get a low-interest loan that originated from American Rescue Plan funds to purchase all my equipment. As I repay my loan, the money is then lent back out to other small businesses."
Building community around high quality food, personal and architectural history, and on the strong character of a business owner committed to doing right by her neighbors — all of these elements have come together to create a place that honors history and is working in the right direction to build a sound (and delicious) future.
Herb and Honey Bakery is located at 516 Cherry St. They will be celebrating their Grand Opening on Thursday, March 20 at 8 a.m. They will be offering free sourdough starter, live art, and the opportunity to contribute memories to that aforementioned community scrapbook. Herb and Honey's regular hours are Thursday through Sunday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Visit herbandhoneybakery.com to learn more.
When not taking a leisurely neighborhood stroll to the inspiringly yummy Herb and Honey (and subsequently devouring those buttery, flaky layers), Erin Phillips can be found at erin@eriereader.com
