Ten for Troika
An Orthodox start to festival season
FRIDAY, JUNE 1
According to Christian existentialist Nikolai Berdyaev, "the meaning of existence is the conquest of loneliness, the acquisition of kinship and nearness." If you subscribe to this philosophy at all, then Troika should be your purpose — if you purport to be a real person, that is.
"We try to be as authentic as we can," says Daria Devlin, who has been co-chair of the Russian heritage festival since the beginning.
It starts with the setting, the unmistakable Church of the Nativity at 257 E. Front Street, noted for its distinctive architecture (highlighted by the golden onion dome towers) and the detailed iconography of Fr. Theodore Jurewicz that decorates its interior. The parish was founded by Russian Old Believer immigrants fleeing political unrest in their mother country (namely the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917 that gave rise to the Soviet Union). They predominantly settled in the historic East Bayfront neighborhood, due to its proximity to the docks and the plentiful work available at the teeming port. The original church was erected in 1919; a new church was built on the same site following a fire in 1986.
The parish now stands at about 150 families, split between descendants of the original group of immigrants and non-Russians who have joined throughout the years. Despite the more diverse demographics, it remains committed to preserving the Old Rite of the Russian Orthodox Church. In a similar spirit, Troika looks to pay homage to tradition while also embracing the larger community. Also owing to that Orthodox tradition is where Troika falls on Erie's busy ethnic festival schedule — the inaugural event (a fundraiser for church expansion) was planned after Orthodox Easter, which occurs later in the spring than Western Easter due to the Julian Calendar. As such, it preempts the others, functioning as a sort of unofficial kickoff to the season. "We love that we're in that position," says Devlin.
Even if you haven't been practicing your prisyadka ("knee-bending" element of the Ukranian hopak dance), you'll surely get a kick out of the high-quality entertainment, food, and drink options that have become Troika's signature. Barynya, an internationally renowned Russian dance ensemble that will perform throughout the weekend, represents a major expense to the Troika organizers, but lends an unbeatable purity to the experience. And the comestibles? They're simply the borscht — and so much more. "It's not what people are accustomed to, and people enjoy that," says Devlin.
Some of the more popular unorthodox items offered at the Orthodox Church include the baked mushrooms, beet salad, vareniki (dumplings filled with fried cabbage and onions, comparable to a pierogi), and Russian hamburgers (infused with fresh herbs, dill, and breadcrumbs, fried up and served on brown bread). Dessert options include poppy seed rolls, blini (crepes) with fruit sauce, and matryoshka (nesting doll) cookies, beautifully decorated by Mavra Jurewicz, daughter of Fr. Theodore and proprietor of Sugarstorm Cookies. Sunday morning will feature a Russian breakfast consisting of scrambled eggs, kielbasa, Russian pancakes, and kasha (Russian porridge) for $10.
Venture capitalists will seize the opportunity and staid socialists will give equal credence to perusing the beverage menu, with imported and local beers (including the heady Sasha's Russian Imperial Stout, from our own Lavery Brewing Company), spirits, and wine. As you give power to the proletariat (your very hard-working liver), you can bask in the knowledge that your dollars and/or rubles are supporting a good cause — the church's charitable ministries in the East Bayfront and beyond.
Za nashu druzjbu (to our friendship)! — Matt Swanseger
4 to 9 p.m. Friday, noon to 6 p.m. Saturday, noon to 8 p.m. Sunday // 251 E. Front St. // churchofthenativity.net/troika
